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Top Fall Fisheries in Yellowstone Country

Top Fall Fisheries in Yellowstone Country

The top fisheries in Yellowstone Country change a lot with the onset of cold fall weather. It’s now snowing in the high country. I think that qualifies as “cold fall weather.”

Where people are fishing…

Many anglers continue to fish the same rivers and streams from now (late September) until late October that they did through the summer season. For the most part, streams like the Lamar, Soda Butte Creek, Slough Creek, large portions of the Gardner River, most small streams, and even good-sized chunks of the mighty Yellowstone are no longer the top fisheries in Yellowstone and the surrounding area.

Except in the events of a warmup lasting close to a week, I suggest avoiding the following streams:

  • Lamar River, including its tributaries Slough and Soda Butte Creeks
  • All streams or portions of streams above 7000 feet elevation except the Firehole River
  • The Gardner River upstream from the Glen Creek Confluence (in lower Sheepeater Canyon)
  • Small streams feeding the Yellowstone River in Montana, except possibly Mill Creek, which is larger than most
  • The Yellowstone River in Montana between the rest stop near mile marker 24 and Mallard’s Rest fishing access, except the few long, deep sections in this reach.
  • The Yellowstone River in YNP between the mouth of the Lamar River and near the Blacktail Deer Creek confluence.

Where people should be fishing…

The top fisheries in Yellowstone and adjacent areas of Montana this time of year possess one (or several) of the following features: fall-run brown trout, geothermal (hot spring or geyser) runoff), low elevation, and large overall size. Deeper, slower water is also preferable.

So which streams possess the features that make them top fisheries in Yellowstone and Montana near the park boundaries this time of year (and beyond)? Here’s a list, including how long they produce into the fall, what time of day and during which weather conditions they fish well, what kind of fishing to expect, and best tactics and flies. Top fisheries in Yellowstone are listed more or less in their distance from Gardiner, Montana, where Parks’ Fly Shop is located.

  • Yellowstone River, Upper River Outside YNP and Lower Black Canyon inside YNP: Because of its size, low elevation, often deep and slow water, and a few geothermal inputs, the Yellowstone near Gardiner ranks as one our our top fisheries in Yellowstone and nearby, particularly for anglers looking to fish dry flies for cutthroats. The big brown trout fishing is also good in places. If you’re targeting big browns, fish deep water downstream of gravel spawning areas with streamers, stonefly nymphs, and egg flies from early October until early November. The dry fly fishing for mostly cutthroats is best from now until mid-October. Some ant and hopper action is still possible, but BWO mayfly hatches are the best bet through October into November, joined then by midges. The best dry fly fishing will be in the afternoons, with the window getting narrower and narrower as time passes. The morning fishing is strictly for larger fish even now.
  • Gardner River, High Bridge to Gardiner: The Gardner River offers great action nymphing from Boiling River down to Gardiner using Euro-nymphing techniques. It’s definitely one of the top fisheries in Yellowstone for this tactic through the year, but it’s even better in the fall. Fish a medium-sized stonefly with a slender, flashy, mayfly nymph or smaller attractor nymph. Egg flies are also good choices. In the deeper sections all the way from the High Bridge down to Gardiner, you can also indicator nymph. Below Boiling River, look for BWO hatches. Below Boiling River, good fishing continues all the way until the end of the park season at sundown on the first Sunday in November, though above Boiling River is no longer one of the top fisheries in Yellowstone after mid-October. Throughout this section, avoid fishing or walking through shallow gravel areas after October 15 to avoid disturbing spawning brown trout. There are plenty of pre-spawn fish in the deep areas right through the end of the season that are fair game. The Gardner is best in the afternoons this time of year.
  • Firehole River: The Firehole is the top fishery in Yellowstone throughout the fall for anglers looking for consistent hatches and the chance at all-day fishing. On warmer days through mid-October, look for the blond White Miller (Nectopsyche) caddis hatching. In uglier weather and later in the fall, look for tiny (#18-24) BWO mayflies. Sometimes the two hatches are mixed. If there’s no hatch, swing soft hackles in the riffles or nymph the deep geyser rock ledges with slender mayfly nymphs. Another option is to fish big nymphs and egg flies in the deep, turbulent areas below Firehole Falls, hoping for fall-run brown and rainbow trout migrating up from Hebgen Lake off the park’s west boundary. The Firehole can fish well all day.

I hope this rundown of top fisheries in Yellowstone helps readers plan their late-season fishing.

Boulder River Trip Report

Boulder River Trip Report

Fly fishing the Boulder River is not something most visitors to the Livingston/Bozeman/Gardiner area think to try. In fact, not many anglers even know the Boulder exists, since it’s east of Livingston, rather than west and south like the rest of the region’s float rivers. The best way visitors can experience fly fishing the Boulder River is to take a float. Guided float trips require the use of whitewater rafts, due to the “bouncy” nature of the river (it’s very steep and fast), its many namesake rocks as well as a few other obstructions like low-head dams and log jams, and the terrible accesses, which in a couple cases require sliding the boat down (or up) steep, rocky slopes into (or out of) the river.

Fish populations in the lower, floatable portion of the Boulder include rainbow trout averaging 10 to 16 inches, browns averaging 12 to 18 inches but reaching trophy size, and some monstrously large whitefish.image showing angler playing a fish on Boulder RiverFishing the Boulder when it’s between 1800cfs and 3000cfs means nymphing the perfect water: deep, slow, green runs. Basically the water that looks the best is the best. This is a mark of how little pressure this river has received so far this season. In two days of floating last week, we saw a total of three other boats, two guide rafts and one solo floater in a small boat. The pressure does increase a lot as the water drops, but it’s still a far cry from the popular Yellowstone or Madison.

From the moving raft, this is fast-paced nymph fishing, with casts flinging left and right, all while wearing a life jacket in case of a “Big Oops” on this rough river. When possible, it makes sense to pull the raft over into the few broad pools, then get out and wade fish the back sides of these riffle corners. While the fish disperse when the river drops from 1800 to 600cfs (after which it becomes far too low to float), for now they are concentrated in these obvious good areas.

author holding a fishOn June 26, Kody Marr and I floated the lower Boulder, from 8-Mile Bridge to the town of Big Timber just above the Yellowstone. Flows were around 2200cfs. Big, but well under the 3000cfs cutoff I consider safe to float. Visibility was excellent at six or more feet. Unlike the Yellowstone, the Boulder basically stays clear even during runoff. It’s high flows that make it unfishable, seldom the color.

It took us a while to get the fishing dialed, but after we did, it was game on. The fish wanted Golden Stonefly nymphs and small attractors like Princes about equally at first, but as we got down towards Big Timber, a caddis hatch began. There were a few risers here and there, but the dry fly fishing here gets a lot better when the river drops some more, so we stuck with nymphs. The Prince was apparently close enough to the caddis pupae, because the trout were crushing it.

The best fish we landed is pictured above. It ate a Bead, Hare, and Copper nymph. We lost some that were certainly bigger, including a brown that might have been over 20 inches that Kody lost just before the takeout.

angler tying on new fly on Boulder RiverOn the 27th, I guided a single angler on the Boulder, after the Yellowstone came up enough to make it a poor choice as we had planned. The Boulder rose too, to 2600cfs or thereabouts. While this made the fish shift almost exclusively to eating large stonefly/attractor nymphs (Stone Bombs and Mega Princes, both in #6), otherwise the fishing was great. Though she could not get out to wade the good corners due to a lack of wading shoes and poor balance, my angler still landed around 15 trout, including three browns over 15 inches, and lost easily twice that number that either shook the hook after a couple head-shakes due to a poor hookset or simply got downstream of the boat and pulled lose. A couple of these fish looked to beat the fish pictured below, the best she landed.

angler holding fishWhile it came up a bunch in the following days, as of this writing the Boulder is on the drop again and back under 3000cfs. I expect to guide on it at least three days a week from now through July, continuing to do so until it drops out of floatable shape sometime in the first week of August. I don’t have many open days in this period, but I do have a few. The Boulder makes a great alternative or add-on to the Yellowstone, particularly for experienced anglers eager for a change of pace. Interested?

Calendar Filling in Quick

Calendar Filling in Quick

Bookings are coming in fast and furious for July and August now, with some spillover into¬† September, though the “core” season is far busier than September-October this year compared to most. Many days in July and August are now fully booked or close to it. Better book soon!

Want to fish with me, Walter? My remaining open days in July and August are 7/20 and 8/2-3 and 8/16-18. My early September dates available are also limited, though things open up after the 10th.

Runoff Break Incoming (Who’s Up for a River Float?)

Runoff Break Incoming (Who’s Up for a River Float?)

Our weather forecast for the next week or so is calling for drastically below normal temperatures. Some days will see highs in the 50s even at low elevations! Runoff is now on the downward track everywhere, so this shot of cold weather is going to temporarily pull our normal summer rivers out of runoff. The Boulder in particular should be ready to float for the season by Monday and will probably not become unfishable again. The Yellowstone will be more marginal, but for anglers who want to “swing for the fences,” these runoff breaks are great times to pound the banks with streamers and stonefly nymphs.

Here’s the graph of predicted streamflows for the Boulder. It is fishable from 3000 down to about 500cfs. 800-2000 is prime. As you can, it’s looking great for next week.

graph showing predicted stream flow of the Boulder River
Boulder River predicted flows

Here’s the graph for the Yellowstone at Corwin Springs. We consider the Yellowstone fishable when it’s at a bit over 10,000cfs at this gauging station, though 8,000 is better.

graphy showing predicted streamflow on the Yellowstone River
Yellowstone River Predicted Streamflow

If the above predicted flows hold out, we expect excellent float conditions for experienced anglers from Sunday the 23rd through the last full week of June, with conditions deteriorating on the Yellowstone in particular for a week or so thereafter.

Availability for Boulder River trips is limited to June 26. Availability for Yellowstone River trips is limited to the 24th-27th and the 29th. Because the above flows are not guaranteed, we would not be willing to accept a float trip booking unless clients are staying in a location (Gardiner, Livingston, Paradise Valley, Mammoth, Bozeman) where they would be able to head over to the Lower Madison for the float if the above doesn’t pan out. Want to roll those dice? We often see some of our best big fish fishing of the year during runoff breaks like those we expect.